{
  "formatVersion": 1,
  "title": "RV Roof Inspection & Reseal",
  "description": "The twice-a-year job that decides whether an RV has a long life or a rotten one. Water gets in at the sealant around roof penetrations long before it gets in anywhere else, and by the time a stain shows on a ceiling panel the damage underneath is usually months old. The first step is identifying your roof material, because the wrong sealant on the right roof is worse than no sealant at all.",
  "category": "exterior",
  "subcategory": "RV roof and sealants",
  "difficulty": "intermediate",
  "tags": ["rv", "seasonal", "roof", "sealant", "water damage", "preventive"],
  "language": "en",
  "estimatedMinutes": 410,
  "estimatedCost": 120.0,
  "currency": "USD",
  "author": {
    "name": "Trackara",
    "bio": "Official Trackara blueprint template",
    "url": "https://trackara.app/blueprints"
  },
  "vehicleCompatibility": [
    {
      "make": "Any",
      "model": "Travel trailer, fifth wheel, motorhome or truck camper",
      "notes": "Roof membranes fall into a few families (EPDM rubber, TPO, fibreglass and aluminium), and the correct cleaner and sealant differ for each. Your coach's manual, or the manufacturer's build sheet, will say which you have. Do not guess from appearance alone."
    }
  ],
  "requiredTools": [
    "Extension or roof ladder rated for your weight",
    "Soft-bristle brush with an extension handle",
    "Bucket and hose",
    "Plastic putty knife or plastic scraper",
    "Caulk gun",
    "Utility knife",
    "Clean rags",
    "Nitrile gloves",
    "Safety glasses",
    "Knee pads",
    "Flashlight",
    "Camera or phone for documentation"
  ],
  "parts": [
    {
      "name": "Self-levelling lap sealant",
      "kind": "required",
      "quantity": 4,
      "estimatedCost": 48.0,
      "notes": "For horizontal surfaces only. It flows out flat and self-heals small gaps. It MUST be the variety compatible with your roof membrane; products are sold specifically for EPDM/TPO and separately for fibreglass and metal. Read the tube."
    },
    {
      "name": "Non-sag / non-levelling sealant",
      "kind": "required",
      "quantity": 2,
      "estimatedCost": 24.0,
      "notes": "For vertical and sloped surfaces such as the sides of the roof, the awning rail and body seams, where a self-levelling product would simply run off. Same membrane-compatibility rule applies."
    },
    {
      "name": "Roof cleaner safe for your membrane",
      "kind": "required",
      "quantity": 1,
      "estimatedCost": 20.0,
      "notes": "EPDM rubber in particular must not be cleaned with petroleum-based or citrus solvents, which attack the membrane. Use a cleaner the roof manufacturer approves, or plain mild soap and water."
    },
    {
      "name": "Denatured alcohol or a manufacturer-approved prep solvent",
      "kind": "consumable",
      "quantity": 1,
      "estimatedCost": 12.0,
      "notes": "For final wipe-down of the areas being sealed. Follow the sealant manufacturer's stated prep procedure. Sealant adhesion is almost entirely about surface prep."
    },
    {
      "name": "Butyl tape",
      "kind": "optional",
      "quantity": 1,
      "estimatedCost": 15.0,
      "notes": "Needed only if you have to lift and rebed a vent or fitting rather than just resealing around it."
    },
    {
      "name": "Roof membrane repair patch kit",
      "kind": "optional",
      "quantity": 1,
      "estimatedCost": 40.0,
      "notes": "For a tear or puncture in the membrane itself. Must match the membrane type."
    },
    {
      "name": "Nitrile gloves",
      "kind": "consumable",
      "quantity": 1,
      "estimatedCost": 3.0
    }
  ],
  "steps": [
    {
      "stepNumber": 1,
      "title": "Identify your roof material before buying anything",
      "description": "Find out from the owner's manual, the manufacturer's build sheet, or the manufacturer directly whether your roof is EPDM rubber, TPO, fibreglass or aluminium. Every product decision in this job follows from that answer.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 20,
      "tools": [],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Never use household silicone sealant anywhere on an RV roof. It looks like a fix, it fails within a season, and nothing, including fresh silicone, will bond to the cured residue afterwards. Removing it properly is a genuinely miserable job that has to be done before any correct repair can be made."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "EPDM is the black-backed rubber membrane that chalks white on the surface as it ages. TPO does not chalk in the same way. Fibreglass and aluminium are obvious by feel.",
        "Write the answer into this blueprint. You will need it every time."
      ],
      "checklist": ["Roof material identified from a reliable source", "Compatible sealant products identified", "Compatible cleaner identified"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 2,
      "title": "Find out whether your roof is walkable",
      "description": "Not all RV roofs are rated to carry a person. Check the manual for a walkable-roof rating and a weight limit. If the roof is not rated, do the whole job from a ladder around the perimeter, or from planks laid across the roof rafters, and never put your weight on unsupported membrane.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 15,
      "tools": ["Flashlight"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Stepping through an unrated roof is a serious injury as well as a very large repair bill.",
        "Soft or spongy spots underfoot mean the decking beneath is already water-damaged. Stop, mark them, and treat the structure as the real job."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Even on a walkable roof, spread your weight and stay over the rafters where you can identify them.",
        "A ladder rated for your weight plus tools, footed on level ground with someone holding it, is worth the extra minute."
      ],
      "checklist": ["Walkable rating confirmed", "Weight limit noted", "Access method decided", "Roof checked for soft spots"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 3,
      "title": "Pick your weather window and set up safely",
      "description": "Sealants have a stated application temperature range and a cure time before they can take rain. Read the tube and pick a dry stretch that covers both. Set the ladder on firm level ground, take everything up in a bucket so your hands are free, and wear proper footwear.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 15,
      "tools": ["Extension or roof ladder rated for your weight", "Bucket and hose", "Safety glasses", "Knee pads"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Never work on a wet roof. A wet membrane is extraordinarily slippery.",
        "Do not work on a roof in high wind, or when the surface is hot enough to burn your hands and knees.",
        "Do not work alone on a roof. Have someone who knows you are up there."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Early morning gives you a cool, dry roof and a full day of cure time before evening dew.",
        "Take photos of every area before you start. Comparing them next season shows you exactly what is moving."
      ],
      "checklist": ["Sealant temperature range and cure time read", "Dry weather window confirmed", "Ladder footed safely", "Someone knows you are on the roof"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 4,
      "title": "Wash the roof",
      "description": "Wash the whole roof with a membrane-safe cleaner and a soft brush, working in sections from front to back and rinsing as you go. You cannot inspect sealant you cannot see, and no sealant will bond to a dirty surface.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 60,
      "tools": ["Soft-bristle brush with an extension handle", "Bucket and hose", "Nitrile gloves"],
      "parts": [
        { "name": "Roof cleaner safe for your membrane", "kind": "required", "quantity": 1 }
      ],
      "warnings": [
        "Do not use petroleum-based or citrus-based cleaners on an EPDM rubber roof. They attack the membrane.",
        "Do not use a pressure washer on the roof or at the seams. It drives water straight under the sealant and can lift the membrane.",
        "Rinse thoroughly. Cleaner residue prevents adhesion just as effectively as dirt does."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "EPDM roofs chalk as they age and the run-off will streak the sides of the coach. Wet the sidewalls first and rinse them afterwards.",
        "Keep the roof drains and gutters clear while you are up there."
      ],
      "checklist": ["Whole roof washed", "Rinsed clean of all cleaner residue", "Roof left to dry completely"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 5,
      "title": "Inspect every roof penetration",
      "description": "Go around every single thing that comes through the roof and look at the sealant closely: roof vents, the air conditioner shroud base, the antenna, the skylight, plumbing vents, the refrigerator vent, solar mounts, and any bolt or screw head. You are looking for cracks, shrinkage, lifted edges, gaps at the corners, and any place the sealant has pulled away from either surface.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 60,
      "tools": ["Flashlight", "Camera or phone for documentation", "Nitrile gloves"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Press gently on suspect sealant with a gloved finger. If it is hard and cracked rather than slightly flexible, it has failed regardless of how it looks."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Photograph each penetration and number them, so next season's inspection is a direct comparison.",
        "Corners crack first. Look hardest at the corners of rectangular vents.",
        "Sealant that has gone chalky, shrunk back, or grown hairline cracks is at the end of its life even if there is no obvious hole."
      ],
      "checklist": [
        "All roof vents inspected",
        "Air conditioner base inspected",
        "Antenna and any aerials inspected",
        "Skylight inspected",
        "Plumbing and refrigerator vents inspected",
        "Every screw head and mount inspected",
        "Defects photographed and listed"
      ],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 6,
      "title": "Inspect the seams, the front and rear caps, and the awning rail",
      "description": "Work the full length of every seam where the roof membrane meets the front cap, the rear cap and both side edges. Then come down and inspect the vertical seams: the awning rail, the corner mouldings, the marker lights, and the window and door surrounds.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 30,
      "tools": ["Flashlight", "Camera or phone for documentation"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "The front cap seam takes the full force of rain at highway speed and is one of the most common leak points on any RV."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Vertical seams take non-sag sealant, not self-levelling. Note which areas are which before you start applying anything.",
        "Check the awning rail carefully. It is a long horizontal-ish seam with a lot of screws and it is easy to overlook from the roof."
      ],
      "checklist": [
        "Front cap seam inspected",
        "Rear cap seam inspected",
        "Both side seams inspected",
        "Awning rail inspected",
        "Corner mouldings and marker lights inspected"
      ],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 7,
      "title": "Remove the failed sealant",
      "description": "Take off the cracked, lifted or loose sealant with a plastic putty knife. Remove everything that is no longer bonded, and leave anything that is still sound and well adhered. You are not trying to strip back to bare surface everywhere, only to remove what has failed.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 60,
      "tools": ["Plastic putty knife or plastic scraper", "Utility knife", "Nitrile gloves", "Safety glasses"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Use plastic tools, not metal. A metal scraper will slice the membrane, and a cut in the membrane is a much bigger problem than the sealant you were trying to remove.",
        "Do not lift a vent or fitting unless you are prepared to rebed it properly with new butyl tape. Once it is up, it must be redone correctly."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Old sealant comes away more easily when it is warm, but not so hot that the membrane is soft.",
        "If you find a vent that is loose or a screw that spins in soft wood, stop resealing and address the structure. Sealant over rotten decking buys nothing."
      ],
      "checklist": ["All failed sealant removed", "Membrane undamaged", "Any loose fittings or spinning screws noted for proper repair"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 8,
      "title": "Prep the surfaces the way the sealant maker specifies",
      "description": "Wipe every area you are about to seal with the prep solvent the sealant manufacturer names, and let it flash off completely. Adhesion is almost entirely a function of preparation, and this is the step that decides whether the work lasts one season or five.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 30,
      "tools": ["Clean rags", "Nitrile gloves", "Safety glasses"],
      "parts": [
        { "name": "Denatured alcohol or a manufacturer-approved prep solvent", "kind": "consumable", "quantity": 1 }
      ],
      "warnings": [
        "Check the solvent against your membrane type as well as against the sealant. Some solvents that are fine for the sealant will damage EPDM.",
        "Solvent vapour outdoors is still solvent vapour. Work upwind and keep it off your skin."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Use a clean face of the rag for each area. Dragging dirt around defeats the purpose.",
        "Let the solvent evaporate fully before applying sealant. Trapped solvent stops the bond."
      ],
      "checklist": ["All seal areas wiped with the specified prep", "Solvent fully flashed off", "Surfaces dry and dust-free"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 9,
      "title": "Apply self-levelling lap sealant to the horizontal areas",
      "description": "Run a generous bead of self-levelling sealant over every horizontal seam and around every roof penetration, working it right up to and slightly over the edges of the sound existing sealant. Let it flow out on its own. That is what self-levelling means, and tooling it usually makes it worse.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 60,
      "tools": ["Caulk gun", "Utility knife", "Nitrile gloves"],
      "parts": [
        { "name": "Self-levelling lap sealant", "kind": "required", "quantity": 4 }
      ],
      "warnings": [
        "Self-levelling sealant is for horizontal surfaces only. On anything sloped it will run and leave the top of the seam bare.",
        "Check the sealant is rated for your membrane. Products for fibreglass and metal roofs are not always compatible with EPDM or TPO."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Cut the nozzle to give a bead wide enough to overlap onto both surfaces properly. A thin bead is a false economy.",
        "Work front to back so you are never kneeling in wet sealant.",
        "Do not skimp around the air conditioner base and the vent corners. Those are where it will fail first."
      ],
      "checklist": [
        "Every roof penetration sealed all the way round",
        "All horizontal seams sealed",
        "Bead overlaps onto sound existing sealant",
        "Nothing walked through or disturbed"
      ],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 10,
      "title": "Apply non-sag sealant to the vertical and sloped areas",
      "description": "Use the non-levelling product on the awning rail, the corner mouldings, marker lights, and the vertical portions of the side and cap seams. Tool this one lightly with a gloved finger to make sure it is pressed into the joint rather than bridging it.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 30,
      "tools": ["Caulk gun", "Nitrile gloves", "Clean rags"],
      "parts": [
        { "name": "Non-sag / non-levelling sealant", "kind": "required", "quantity": 2 }
      ],
      "warnings": [
        "Do not substitute household silicone here either, however convenient the tube on the shelf looks."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Sealant bridging a gap without being pressed into it will pull away from one side the first time the joint moves.",
        "Wipe excess immediately. Cured sealant on a sidewall is far harder to remove than wet sealant."
      ],
      "checklist": ["Awning rail sealed", "Corner mouldings sealed", "Marker lights sealed", "Vertical seams sealed and tooled in"],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    },
    {
      "stepNumber": 11,
      "title": "Check the ceiling from inside, then let it cure and log the job",
      "description": "Go inside and examine the ceiling and the upper walls with a flashlight held at a low angle, looking for staining, discolouration, or panels that sag or feel soft, particularly around vents, the air conditioner and the front cap. Then keep the coach dry for the full cure time on the tube, and record the date, the products used and the areas resealed.",
      "estimatedMinutes": 30,
      "tools": ["Flashlight", "Camera or phone for documentation"],
      "parts": [],
      "warnings": [
        "Any ceiling stain means water has already been inside. Sealing the outside stops it getting worse but does not repair what is already wet. Find and address the damage.",
        "Do not move the coach or expose it to rain before the sealant has cured for the time the manufacturer states."
      ],
      "tips": [
        "Set a reminder for the next inspection. Twice a year, plus after any hailstorm or low-branch encounter, is the habit that keeps a coach dry.",
        "Record the exact products used. Matching the same chemistry next time avoids compatibility problems."
      ],
      "checklist": [
        "Interior ceiling and upper walls inspected",
        "Any staining or soft panels documented",
        "Cure time respected",
        "Date, products and areas resealed logged",
        "Next inspection reminder set"
      ],
      "imageUrls": [],
      "videoUrl": null
    }
  ],
  "coverImageUrl": null
}
