How to Replace Brake Pads — Step by Step

Safety note: Brakes are a safety-critical system. If you're not confident with any step, have a shop do it. A mistake here can mean brake failure at highway speed.

Step 1 — Loosen lug nuts before lifting

With the vehicle on the ground, break each lug nut loose by about one turn — don't remove them. Breaking them loose while the wheel is weighted keeps it from spinning.

Step 2 — Lift and secure the vehicle

Jack the vehicle at the manufacturer's specified lift points. Set it down on jack stands rated for your vehicle's weight. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Step 3 — Remove the caliper

On the back of the caliper you'll see two slide bolts (usually 12mm, 14mm, or 17mm). Remove them. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hang it by a bungee or wire from the suspension arm. Never let the caliper dangle by the brake hose — you'll damage the hose.

Step 4 — Remove the old brake pads

Slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket. Note their orientation — inner vs outer, and any wear-indicator tabs. Clean the bracket with a wire brush and brake cleaner spray to remove rust and old pad dust.

Step 5 — Compress the caliper piston

The piston must be pushed back into the caliper to fit over the new (thicker) pads. Use a C-clamp or a dedicated piston compressor tool. Open the brake master cylinder reservoir first — fluid will push back as the piston retracts, and a sealed reservoir will resist the compression.

Warning for rear calipers on some vehicles: the piston must be rotated in as well as pushed. These need a special tool or cube adapter. Check your vehicle before attempting.

Step 6 — Install the new pads

Slide the new pads into the caliper bracket in the same orientation as the old ones. Apply a thin coat of brake grease to the back of each pad where it contacts the piston and caliper fingers. Never apply grease to the friction surface — it will ruin the pads.

Step 7 — Reinstall the caliper

Slide the caliper back over the pads and rotor. Clean the slide pins, grease them lightly with brake grease, and reinstall the slide bolts. Torque to manufacturer spec (typically 20–30 ft-lb — always check your specific manual).

Step 8 — Reinstall the wheel and lower the car

Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle, then torque the lugs to spec in a star pattern. Typical passenger-vehicle spec is 80–100 ft-lb — check your manual.

Step 9 — Pump the brakes and bed-in the pads

Before driving, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm. The piston is fully retracted and needs to re-seat against the new pads. If you skip this step and drive off, your first pedal press will go to the floor.

For the first few miles, drive gently. A proper bed-in procedure extends pad life and prevents pulsing: perform 5 moderate stops from 30 mph, then 5 moderate stops from 45 mph, with cool-down between runs. This transfers an even film of pad material to the rotor.

Step 10 — Log the brake job in Trackara

In the Trackara app, log the brake pad replacement with date, mileage, pad brand (e.g., Akebono ProACT, EBC Yellowstuff), and part number. Set the next inspection reminder — pads typically last 25,000–70,000 miles depending on compound and driving style.

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